Marlay Point Overnight Race 2002 - the Hydrogem Experience

The Marlay Point Overnight Race once again hove into view on the sailing calendar.  The first priority was to confirm that the crew are goers for the event.  As this usually involves taking at least one day off from work this is not always straight forward.  One of Hydrogem’s regular crew could not make it so the hunt for a replacement was on.  Ron Ashpole, the recent purchaser of GEM #100 – Midlife Express, was recruited so Hydrogem was a starter for 2002.

The bulk of the Canberra crowd were leaving early on Friday morning with a view to launching at Paynesville and sailing to Lochsport in the afternoon.  Due to commitments Hydrogem could not leave until 1030am. 

Ron arrived punctually at 1030 and all was looking good.  Hydrogem was travelling in style this year, being towed by Ron’s Jeep Cherokee.  Murphy’s Law being what it is, of course Ron’s trailer coupling did not match the trailer!  Off to the local Petrol Station to procure a trailer adapter.  What luck, the only adapter they have was the correct size.  Murphy’s Law strikes again – the adapter did not have a price on it and the shop assistant could not obtain one and wouldn’t sell it to us!  Good grief, I hope this is not an omen.  Off to Belconnen and finally an adapter was purchased and fitted.  The next port of call was to collect the third member of the crew – Robert Cotgrove.  Although we were late Robert was waiting at the appointed location.  We were finally assembled and the vehicles in roadworthy condition.  The trek to Paynesville was before us, a drive of approximately 6 hours.  The usual stop at the Pie shop in Nimmitabel to break the journey.

Photographer: Martin van der Hoek

After an uneventful, although scenic, drive we arrived in Paynesville at 1615hrs.  We unpacked Hydrogem from its road condition and proceeded to get the boat into sailing mode.  Luggage and personal gear was transferred from the vehicle to the boat.  The outboard fuel tank was refuelled, batteries and last minute purchases made.  Finally all was ready and we launched about 1800hrs.

Lake Victoria looked much friendlier than it had done on our arrival last year.  However, being conservative we initially motored out to see what the conditions in the middle were like.  Probably an 8-10 knot north easter.  Soon the noise, vibration and rolling of motoring was replaced by the pull of main and spinnaker.  The boat was cruising at a leisurely 4-5 knots.  It was a beautiful evening for a sail, although I was a bit worried that we would be arriving at Lochsport after sunset.  However, that was in the future and we all enjoyed the twilight sail in the pleasant conditions.

It was a dark and moonless evening when we arrived outside of Lochsport.  Our Gippsland lakes map proved to be accurate and we were able to spot the various navigation lights and ascertain our position.  Good practice for the upcoming race.  We dropped sails when we reached the navigation lights outside of the Lochsport marina.  By the time we had the sails squared away and the motor started we had drifted about a 100 metres west, this proved to be a mistake.  Motoring cautiously towards where I thought the channel might have been we, rather ungracefully, ran aground.  Fortunately we had struck sand so it appeared that no damage had been done.  Circling back out to deeper water we tried a second entry to the channel and this time successfully entered the marina.

GEM Fever arriving at Lochsport Photographer: Martin van der Hoek

After securing the boat it was off to the pub in search of a feed.  The crowd that had arrived earlier in the day were in full swing.  Although late for the evening meal the bar staff were good enough to get us a seafood something and chips.  With a few beers it suited us and we happily took in the surroundings.  The party atmosphere confirmed to us that Marlay was on again.  The constitutions of some was considered nothing less that heroic!

The marina proved to be a good host and the water remained like glass the entire night.  The three of us slept in the GEM without any problems.  A crystal clear morning revealed a marina full of trailer sailers and their crews in various states of health!  Some were off to the pub for a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs, others were happier having their cereal and a brew on their boat.  The inevitable line up for the showers was in full swing.

Soon the first outboard engine roared into life and boats made their way along the channel markers as they commenced their journey to Marlay Point.  There was movement among the assembled GEM fleet and soon they too were heading west. 

The easterly breeze had resumed so it was, once again, a pleasant spinnaker ride.  We managed to hold the spinnaker well into McLennan Straight and managed a clean passage through there.  The original plan was to stop at Holland’s Landing for lunch but this was packed with houseboats so we decided to head straight for Marlay.

The wind was picking up significantly.  Where we were previously enjoying a ride in the 5 knot range now we were now zooming along pulling mid 6 knots easily.  Occasionally we would catch a wave and we watched the GPS eagerly as it raced into the low to mid 7 knot range.  Our best speed being 7.5 knots.  It was exciting sailing and having the waves running beside us was great fun.  About a kilometre in front of us we saw Imagem heading dramatically to windward as they suffered a nasty broach.  It is an unusual experience watching your friends have an event such as this.  There is little to nothing you can do to help in the short term.  You just watch and hope they get the program back on the rails.  Happily, Imagem was soon on its feet and heading in the right direction, minus spinnaker.

Hydrogem soon caught up to Imagem and Vegemite.  We exchanged excited comments and everyone looked like they were having a thoroughly good time.  After a short while Imagem decided to get back on the horse and put the spinnaker up again.  It was 15 km of spinnaker heaven. 

The Lake Wellington Yacht Club was soon in view and we dropped sails.  Normally boats would find a spot out the front.  With the 15 knot easterly winds and the associated chop this was not a great idea this year.  We all headed for the small channel/estuary to the right of the club.  Boats were everywhere and it was difficult steering with no keel and little rudder.  Finally we managed to get a spot next to Bunratty (a Castle 650).  The GEMs were spread all over the place so contact was limited. After squaring the boat away it was time to complete various bits of paperwork for the race.  Ron and Robert completed the Next of Kin forms and I checked all the Safety paperwork was in order.  The next step was to register with the race officials.  The race hut was in full swing.  Out front there was a safety inspection being conducted.  I was pleased to see that Hydrogem was correctly entered on the rolls and signed on.  I received my showbag of bits and that was that.  The next stop was the food and t-shirt vans where we partaked of the local fare.  Crews could be seen on the grass trying to stack up on some zeds before the evening’s race.  We decided to head back to the boat.

Photographer: Martin van der Hoek

Our little community around the channel consisted of boats of all shapes and sizes.  The young guys with their latest sportsboats looking splendid with their triple spreaders and carbon masts.  The Hartley TS16s and Cherrys looked a little frail to my eyes considering the conditions that were being experienced on Lake Wellington at the moment.  However, their crews were chipper and looking forward to the challenge. 

Back on Hydrogem we watched as newly arriving boats looked for shelter in the now packed channel/estuary.  With little steerage and much windage it was a case of pushing off incoming boats as they inevitably slew off course.  Two Thompson Eights had an interesting coming together.  Their masts had become caught and the crews struggled to separate them.  Such was the entertainment through the afternoon.  All through this the assembled community took it all in good stride.  Despite some precarious manoeuvres by some skippers there was no animosity or ill words.  Some assistance to send the wayward boat on its way and that was that.

I was trying to catch some zeds in Hydrogem.  The bumpers were squeaking away against our patient neighbour (Bunratty) as I listened to Abba and the Bee Gees being blared from the clubhouse.  Every now and again I would see through the hatchway a mast heading precariously one way then the other.  Occasionally one would head in our direction and Robert would play goalkeeper and push the intruder away.

Photographer: Martin van der Hoek

The race briefing was at 1730.  We dutifully made our way to the clubhouse.  An eccentric and lively weatherman read the forecast.  It was not going to be a downhill picnic like last year.  Easterly to north-easterly winds were forecast up to 15 knots well into the night with the moon rising at 0215hrs.  It was going to be a beat all the way. 

As we walked back to the boat I spoke to the crew about my thoughts for the evening.  Obviously the conditions were dramatically different to the flat water sailing we enjoy on Lake Burley Griffin.  With the chop it was important that we did not set the sails too flat.  We would need power to punch through the chop and some twist to reduce  leeway.  We set the clew board on the jib to three to put our plan into motion. 

The race start was 1930.  By 1830 crews were preparing for the journey.  Excitement in the channel was growing as we all donned our wet weather gear and started making arrangements to cast off.  We watched as boats disengaged themselves and made their way through the pack, some once again careening off parked boats as windage took over.  Some amazing close calls were seen but through it all no damage was sustained to boats or crews sense of humour.  Watching the faces of the departing crews was revealing – determined, anxious, excited, purposeful – it was all there.  It looked like our small community was off to battle with the pumping wind and whitecaps of Lake Wellington, and it was!

Soon we too cast off and joined the caravan of boats heading out to Lake Wellington, waving to friends as we made our way out.  I was happy to reach deep water and have the keel locked down and the rudder fully engaged.  The 5hp Yamaha was doing a sterling job propelling us into the chop.  In many ways this can be the most dangerous part of the race.  Boats were zooming around under full power as other crews were primarily focussed on raising their sails and getting their boat into race order.  I was pleased when our jib and main were fully hoisted and I could douse the motor and concentrate on getting Hydrogem fully into sailing mode.

Photographer: Martin van der Hoek

In last year’s race we were able to spot our friends and competitors and plot our pre-start manoeuvres.  Every now and again Ron and Robert would yell “There’s Vegemite” or “There’s Dodgem”.   But I had thrown those tactics in the bin.  This year it was more of a case of make your own plan and keep the boat safe in the frenzy of the pre-start.  It took us some time to locate the two boats indicating the start line.  Now it was simply a question of time and space.  The first flare shot into the sky.  The pre-start frenzy was now on in earnest.  As I weaved Hydrogem through the pack I kept peppering Ron with “how much time to go”, “how much time to go.”  Finally the start flare was released and we were off.  While not being the first across I felt that we had a good start, at the committee boat end and in clear air.    Gem Fever likewise had a good start as I could see them a short distance ahead of us.  Boats were spread to leeward of us, others were already tacking onto port and heading into the twilight.

Ron was fiddling with the main trying to get a decent setting.  Although the main was over-powered it was not outrageously so and I was convinced the wind would abate as the evening progressed.  We were making good ground on Gem Fever, although we were heading lower I felt we were faster at that stage.  I had to curb my natural competitive instincts which was to duke it out with Gem Fever.  I was happy with our progress and pointing higher to play with Gem Fever would not do us much good.  My plan for the night was simply to sail the boat as fast and safely as I could and let the rest sort itself out.

It was not long before we tacked away from Gem Fever, that was the last we saw of them until the finish.  I was surprised to find that we had found our own patch of water.  Although there were lights all around we were not sailing in the company of anyone else.  Being on port tack on a dark, moonless night with hundreds of other boats around is not a good feeling.  I peered at regular intervals into the darkness.  Only a few seconds after one such viewing we heard the call of “Starboard.”  A quick look and a boat was steaming down on us on starboard tack.  It was too late to duck underneath so a quick tack was in order.  Not the best tack I have ever executed but we were out of harms way.  I swear I only looked for a starboard boat seconds earlier.  Later in the night we saw at least one boat with no lights at all and others with lights so dim it was impossible to see them until very late.  Such blatant disregard for your crew’s and competitors safety beggars belief.  However, we had learnt our lesson for the evening.  We then took it in turns to keep a constant watch “underneath” the boat.

Raising sails at the start of the race Photographer: Debra Hippisley

Ron was doing a great job with the main and we powered our way to windward.  I have always been impressed with how dry a boat the GEM is.  This night was the wettest I have spent on a GEM.  At irregular intervals we would hit a set of waves and great bucket loads of water would drench down on us.  Ron and I joked with Robert that as number one it was his job to take the wash and protect us further back!   The smaller boats must have been taking a real pasting.

The next significant point of our journey was Holland’s landing and the entry to McLennan straight.  The water was flat in the straight but there was no let up on the concentration.  The name of the game now was to take every lift and try to find a clear way through the traffic.  The faster division had started half an hour after us and the leading boats were now overtaking us.  The trick was to let them by without costing yourself position or speed on the water.

About half way down the straight we finally bumped (not literally) into another GEM.  Dodgem snuck by us on a lift and disappeared into the gloom.  Awhile later we returned the favour.  By this time we were nearing the end of the straight and the entry into Lake Victoria.  The wind was increasing and we found ourselves powered up and in a duel with Dodgem.  Put two Gems in the same patch of water and you have a race!  The crew fired up and the tacks became crisper.  After an interesting tacking duel we emerged ahead and that was that.  Dodgem disappeared into the blackness and once again we had our own private battle with the elements, this time on Lake Victoria.

Looking up at the main you could not help yourself but let your eyes linger beyond to the stunning sky.  On this moonless night it was a real treat for city dwellers such as ourselves.  The number and intensity of the stars was dazzling.  For those of us with a spiritual persuasion it truly is the fingerprint of God. 

However, I digress – back to more terrestrial matters.

We spent long periods sailing by ourselves.  A feature I was not unhappy about.  We did have one interesting battle during our travel up Lake Victoria.  A Castle 550 was travelling well, if lower than ourselves.  At one point he crossed in front of us.  I mentioned to Ron to note his angle of heel and how hard he was driving the boat.  In comparison we were flat and pointing much higher.  We had an interesting battle for a while and finally we had him on starboard tack.  I had wanted to go back to port but wanted to bounce the Castle back to the left of the course.  We yelled out starboard and finally he relented and tacked.  Shortly after I tacked back to port.  It appeared our starboard call had not amused our Castle friend and he tacked to port also.  Only this time his tactics had changed.  Instead of sailing lower and faster he seemed to decide come hell or high water he was going to sail over the top of us.  In the pointing game our trim was superior and it was not long before he was in our bad air and falling back into the night. 

With our little battle won I was feeling rather chipper at this stage.  Sailing always has that bad habit of biting you in the butt when you get that way it seems!  Sailing to the right hand side of the lake and seemingly a safe distance from shore I called a tack.  The boat reacted as if it was tacking in jelly and came to a halt.  At first I thought we had grounded on sand, so soft was our stopping.  We all lent to one side to raise the keel and then backed the jib – nothing, absolutely stuck.  We got the paddles out and tried to paddle the nose around – still stuck.  What’s going on!  We shone the torch down into the water to reveal thick weeds.  Desperate paddling was getting us nowhere.  I asked Robert to raise the keel.  Finally after removing the keel case cover and the lockdown pin the keel was raised.  The jib was held into the wind and finally the nose of Hydrogem slowly arced around as we completed a jibe through the jelly of weeds.  Robert then refitted the keel equipment and we staggered back into Lake Victoria proper.  The rudder was coated with a thick layer of weeds which I scraped off with a paddle and we were finally underway again, although the boat felt sluggish.  I guessed there must still have been a fair amount of weed around the keel. 

Let’s get this sucker home!  We were on the final part of our journey.  The wind was abating and the lights of Paynesville were approaching.  We were executing a tack and came to a complete halt, for reasons unknown, when we had Vegemite bearing down on us.  I had no way on at all and indicated such to Vegemite who then tacked away.  Was it weed around the keel?  I don’t know.  So with the finish only an hour away we had a duel with Vegemite.  We could see the lights on the respective points but could not decide whether to go for it.  There was some indecision about what was a safe entry.  As Ron and Robert debated where they thought we were on the map we had an interesting duel with Vegemite.  Despite having interesting starboard positions on Vegemite somehow they got through.

In the end we followed Vegemite into the finishing bay, but all was not lost.  Vegemite had a genoa but was pointing noticeably lower.  We were making reasonable way under jib.  It looked like we might have a chance of sneaking by.  In the end it was Vegemite by 8 seconds.  It was five o’clock and we had been sailing for 9 and a half hours.  Gem Fever had beaten us in by two and a half minutes.

We then loaded Hydrogem onto the trailer and did a cursory pack.  A hot shower was needed to revive our cold and tired bodies. 

In the car park we swapped stories of our Marlay experience.  Running aground, running under trees and breaking the radio antennae (Imagem), running over trees (Dodgem), witnessing bad collisions and a host of other adventures and misadventures.  Such is the Marlay Point Overnight Race – for each boat there is a different story.

At the end of the day I was happy with our journey. We had sailed the boat quickly and safely.  I was happy with our trim settings and the crew performed brilliantly.  What a weekend of sailing!

With thanks to the crew of Hydrogem – Ron Ashpole and Robert Cotgrove.

Thanks also to Martin van der Hoek and Debra Hippisley for the photographs accompanying the article.